|
| A.
Either use the "Spacing Guidelines" sheet to determine positioning,
or refer to other drawings with specific measurements for the job. (See figure 1A)
B. The base cabinets should be in place prior to installing chair
frames with standard feet.
C. For frames with inverted feet, the base cabinets are set in
place, their position is marked on the floor, and then they are removed. (See
figure 1B)
D. The vertical post should be against the base cabinet and 1/2"
behind the back panel in covered installations.
E. Chairs may be placed on the arms prior to bolting down frames
to verify desired spacing.
F. A 3 1/2" space between the base cabinet and the pack panel
is required for covered bar frames. |
Figure # 1A
Covered Frames Standard Feet | Figure # 1B
Covered Frames Inverted Feet |
 |  |
| # 2
- Leveling and Shimming |
| |
| A.
With the frames in the proper position, place a level on the vertical
post and shim under the feet until the vertical post is plumb. (See figures 2A and 2B)
B. Make sure the top of the vertical post will be 1/4" below the
lowest part of the counter top overhang when it is completed.
In some cases, the entire frame may need to be raised
to account for the finished counter height. |
| Figure
# 2A | Figure
# 2B |
 |  |
| # 3
- Anchoring Frames to the Floor |
| |
| A.
The frames must be securely anchored to the floor
B. For installations on sub-flooring, drill pilot holes and anchor
with 3/8" lag bolts. Try to hit floor joists even if it requires drilling extra holes in
the feet to accomplish it. (See figure 3A)
C. For installations on cement floors, drill holes in the cement
and use concrete anchors to hold the frames in place.
D. For installations on radiant heat floors, the space under the
frames should be left without heat lines or the heat lines must be identified to avoid
puncturing.
E. For installation of inverted frames, extra strong anchoring
is required. If the basement below has exposed ceilings, use bolts, washers, blocking
and nyloc nuts. If the basement is finished, holes may be cut in the sub-flooring so you can reach
underneath with large anchoring material. (See figure 3B)
Following the frame anchoring, the bottom of the base cabinets are
notched to go over the feet of the frames. The cabinets are again
set in place and attached to the floor. |
Figure
# 3A
Standard Feet Frame | Figure
# 3B
Inverted Feet Frame |
 Lag Bolts
Floor | 
Bolts, Washers, and Nyloc Nuts |
| # 4
- Building the Foot Box |
| |
| A.
The purpose of the foot box is to cover the feet of the standard frames
and to provide a place to rest your feet. The box is built by the installer and covered in wood, tile, vinyl
or carpet by the flooring contractor. Raised panels and back access
doors must be above the top of the finished foot box.
B. For a 36" high counter, the box would normally be framed
with 2" X 6" lumber and covered with 3/4" particle board.
For higher counters, either 2" X 10" or 2"
X 12" lumber may be used for framing or two steps may be made if
desired.
C. The depth of the box is 15" on covered frame installations
and 18" when the frame posts are exposed. The length of the
box depends on the cabinet design and the floor
plan.
D. The foot box should be anchored securely to the floor. Adequate
framing material must be placed under the particle board to handle people standing on it.
E. No foot box is necessary on frames with inverted feet.
A foot rail is recommended when the counter top is higher
than 30 inches. |
Figure
# 4A
Standard Feet | Figure
# 4B
Standard Feet |
|
| # 5
- Attaching Back Panels |
| |
| A.
On covered post installations, the back panel must be notched to go
around the horizontal support. The bottom of the back panel should be cut
to rest on the foot box. (See figure 5A)
B. On inverted frame installations, the back panel rests on the
floor.
C. A 2" x 4" bracing should be placed between the base
cabinets and the back panels for attaching back panels. (See figures 5B and 5C)
D. Attach the back panel to the end panels and the 2" X 4"
spacers. (See figures 5C and 5D) |
| Figure
# 5A | Figure
# 5B |
 |  |
| Figure # 5C | Figure # 5D |
 |  |
# 6
- Attaching chairs to frames |
| |
| A.
Temporarily attach the pivots to the arms. Be sure the "front"
of the pivots are towards the front of the chairs.
B. Place the chairs on the pivots. The chairs may be placed off
center if needed to accomplish desired spacing.
C. Mark and drill pilot holes in the bottom of the chairs. Be
careful not to drill through the chairs.
D. Remove the pivots from the arms and attach them to the bottom of
the chairs using the flat washers and screws provided.
E. Permanently re-attach the pivots, with the chairs, to the arms.
F. Attach the shrouds to the arm sockets* by hooking one side partially
around one arm socket and working the other side until it snaps around the second arm socket**.
* The bottom of the shroud has the corners clipped on the
back.
**The shrouds are undersized to provide a tight fit. They may
be stretched out a little if needed. |
| Figure
# 6 |
Standard Feet |
Adjustment
of Spring Return
and Soft Stop System |
Tools
Needed: 2= 3/4" open-end wrenches
Problem: Chair returns too slowly or not at all.
Solution: On right bolt stack, use 3/4" wrench on the bottom
jam nut to hold it in place. Use the second wrench on the ½"
nyloc jam nut at the top of the right bolt stack. Tighten the
nyloc nut a partial turn. This will tighten the spring.
Problem: Stop position of the chair needs adjusting. The chair
either hits the counter edge, or it stops too far away from the edge.
Solution: The cam washer near the bottom of the bolt stack stops the
chair. It must be positioned differently to stop the chair at
a different spot. Accomplish this by holding the top nyloc jam
nut (of the bolt stack that is not performing correctly) stationary
and loosening the bottom ½" jam nut and adjusting the cam washer
to the correct position. Then re-tighten the ½" jam nut. | | Counter
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